Visiting ‘Eua: A Guide to Tonga’s Forgotten Island

When I heard about ‘Eua, Tonga – a small island that was rather unexplored, with lush rainforests and geographically seen as the oldest island of the Kingdom of Tonga, I knew I wanted to go.

‘Eua is a truly offbeat destination in Tonga – ideal for anybody looking to immerse themselves in untouched nature, disconnect from the modern world and find complete relaxation.

If you are spending a week in Tongatapu (or more) and wonder what else is there to see, it’s worth looking into exploring its neighbouring island. In as little as two days, you can see the major sights, enjoy the quietness of the place and experience the real Tonga.

‘Eua is for travelers who enjoy quiet places and don’t need constant structure. If you’re happy arranging things through your guesthouse, walking short distances, and letting days unfold naturally, this island is incredibly rewarding.

It’s ideal if you are a nature lover and look to disconnect. If you’re after nightlife, resorts, or easy transport between sights, ‘Eua will likely feel too remote.

‘Eua Tonga: The Ultimate Guide About One Unexplored Island

‘Eua is also known as ‘the forgotten island’. It’s only 17.5 km away from Tonga’s main island, Tongatapu. ‘Eua is the highest of all the islands in Tonga and is some 30 million years older than the rest of the archipelago. 

I’m sitting on the top deck of the ferry, and the sun is shining in my face. A couple of other tourists are with me on the ferry, with the majority of people being locals. Leaving Tongatapu, we pass by its lagoon and tiny islands just off the east coast. On arrival at the Nafanua wharf in ‘Ohonoa, I have finally spotted some spouts of air in the distance, coming from a pod of Humpback whales.

‘Eua Tonga at a Glance

‘Ohonoa is ‘Eua’s main town and the only place on the island where you can find a BSP Bank, a tiny tourism information centre, an adjacent Vodafone shop that sells SIM cards (in case you start to rethink your digital detox), the obligatory church and a bookshop called the ‘Friendly Island Bookshop’.

As everywhere in Tonga, you can find pigs roaming freely around the streets.

‘Eua Tonga: How To Get There

You can reach ‘Eua either by hopping on a propeller plane or by taking the ferry. The flight to ‘Eua is roughly seven minutes long and operated by REALtonga Airlines. On the other hand, if you are on a budget (like I was), you can opt for a relaxed two-hour ferry ride from the newly built terminal in Nuku’alofa.

The time schedule for the ferry changes every week, so it’s best to check with the company directly via their Facebook Page Estc – Mv Maui & Mv ‘onemato. (Remember there is no service on Sundays, nor for the flights)

How To Get Around ‘Eua, Tonga

To get around and properly explore ‘Eua, you certainly need to go on a tour, rent a car, or hitchhike with a friendly local.

Local Tours on ‘Eua

Most visitors either arrange tours directly through their guesthouse or combine short taxi rides with walking. There’s no public transport timetable to rely on, so flexibility is part of the experience.

Off Grid Tonga is run by Damon and Nooroa, a down-to-earth couple who settled on ‘Eua to live close to the land. Their tours focus on raw landscapes, quiet trails and everyday island life rather than polished attractions. If you want to see parts of ‘Eua you’d never find on your own, this is one of the most authentic ways to explore the island.

Best Places to Stay on ‘Eua Right Now

Accommodation on ‘Eua is very limited and changes frequently, especially after recent cyclones. Several long-standing guesthouses have closed or paused operations, so its essential you plan ahead and stay flexible!

Luxury: Blue Water Retreat is the most polished and private stay on ‘Eua. Set right by the ocean, it offers spacious rooms, thoughtful design, and a calm, resort-like feel that’s rare on the island. It’s a great choice if you want privacy, space, and help arranging activities like whale swims or island tours directly through the property. Ideal for couples and travellers who want ease without losing the offbeat feel.

Mid-range: Toafa Lodge is a relaxed, well-run stay with simple but comfortable rooms. The atmosphere is calm, and the hosts are helpful with transport and local planning. It makes a good base if you want value, local insight, and a comfortable place to return to after exploring the island.

Tonga Airport Glamping is currently the most accessible accommodation on ‘Eua after several hotels closed due to cyclone damage. While prices are higher than what you’d normally expect for a simple stay, it’s a practical option if you’re flexible and mainly here to explore the island.

A Note on The Hideaway (Now Closed)

The Hideaway was where I stayed during my time on ‘Eua and it shaped much of my experience on the island. Unfortunately, the property is no longer operating following cyclone damage.

One of the most recommended places for ‘Eua is The Hideaway Hotel. Marta, a Chilean woman who was currently running the place during the summer months, was extremely helpful in providing me with info on how to get there.  

Through a palm-fringed entry, we pulled into the place, and two friendly dogs greeted me. The guest house has a huge dining area, open to all sides, with a small path winding its way to a deck with a breathtaking view of the ocean. What you can expect: Perfect views of the ocean (and of the Humpback whales) from their deck, zero Wi-Fi, friendly personnel, quietness and daily changing meals. Would always go again!

Best Things to Do on ‘Eua

This offbeat destination offers great diversity in terms of outdoor activities, whether this being on land or in the sea. Most tours on ‘Eua are arranged locally through accommodation hosts or operators on the island. With limited infrastructure, it’s normal to organize activities after arrival rather than booking everything in advance.

1. Swim With Humpback Whales

The main reason people come to ‘Eua is to swim with the majestic humpback whales. There are large pods of humpback whales easily visible from the coast and people have been swimming with up to 40 (!) of them at a time. It’s making encounters feel less staged and more wild than on busier islands.

Whale swimming tours on ‘Eua are best arranged directly through Blue Water Retreat, which operates experienced tours during the season and can advise on conditions once you’re on the island.

If you’re deciding between whale swimming on ‘Eua or Tongatapu, I break down the differences, seasons and logistics in detail in my dedicated guide to swimming with humpback whales in Tongatapu.

2. Visit Rock Garden

In the rough southern part of the island, you can find the ‘Rock Garden’. Some say it’s the most beautiful part of the island. This area shows a completely different side of ‘Eua, rugged, exposed, and dramatic, and helps explain why the island feels older and wilder than the rest of Tonga.

You can find lush green fields with huge rocks varying in size, dotted around the area. The whole place sits on top of 200 metres of dramatic-looking cliffs with an endless view of the open ocean. It’s also where you tend to find the ‘Eua Red Shining Parrot’, only native to the island. Not getting too close to the edge of the cliffs, you can still admire the dramatic formations and how nature took its toll over the years.

3. Lianga Huo a Maui (The Natural Archway)

Wandering through the ‘Rock Garden’, you reach the ‘The Natural Archway’ – Liangohuo a Maui. The path leads to a viewing platform, passing through a virgin forest full of cycad trees for about 15 minutes. The walk itself is part of the experience, cutting through untouched forest that makes you forget how small the island actually is.

4. ‘Ovava Tree

One of the highlights of the island is the big ‘Ovava tree, also known as the Strangeling Fig Tree (‘Ovava is an old Tongan name for those big trees). Botanists cannot age the tree with certainty, but they estimate it to be around 800 years old. It was more impressive than any other tree I have seen before – an array of never-ending roots wherever you looked. From the main road, it is only a short walk to the tree – you cannot miss it!

It’s not just a photo stop, it’s a reminder of how long this island has existed long before tourism ever arrived.

5. Tonga Beaches

What makes ‘Eua’s beaches special isn’t perfection, it’s solitude. On most days you’ll have them entirely to yourself.

Tufuvai Beach is clean, with white sand and next to the (now closed) Deep Resort. It’s only a leisurely 10-minute walk and with enough trees around to seek refuge from the sun, you can spend an afternoon easily. Here I met a friendly local family who invited me to join their picnic for a celebration.

Ufilae Beach is a very laid-back beach lies on the west side of ‘Eua, north of ‘Ohonua. The trail leads through palm trees and forest for about 20 minutes. I happened to be there during low tide and therefore witnessed a few locals collecting some nets behind the reef. I’d argue that you can have the beach to yourself on most days. 

There are a couple more beaches on the islands, with the ones in the north being the prettiest.

‘Eua Tonga Best Places to Eat

Supermarket

The nearest shop for vegetables and fruit, as well as the only supermarket, can be found on the main street in Pangai. It’s better to get supplies from the main island if you don’t have a car. There is also one liquor shop on the island, which is essentially a little shack adjacent to the house of the owner. However, he had a substantial supply of Maka, one of the Tongan beers, as well as other spirits and kava.

Restaurant

It did not seem to be a common thing for Tongans to eat Tongan food outside of their home. I was excited to see that the family who runs the liquor shop also operates a tiny ‘restaurant’ from their kitchen. The dishes were all handwritten in Tongan on a whiteboard, offering a mix of either meat, fish and taro or some sort of yucca.

They also had prepared one of the traditional dishes that I was keen to try – ‘Ota Ika’ (Tongan raw fish). It’s similar to Ceviche, where you have raw fish, in lime juice, chopped tomato and onions in coconut milk. I ordered the Ota Ika, fish with gravy and a side of taro/yucca chips – all for 14 TOP (~5 US$). Let me tell you, the portions were so massive, great to share with someone or to stretch it to two meals.

Practical Tips for Visiting ‘Eua

• Enough cash! Although there is a local bank, you never know if it’s out of service or running low on money. After all, it’s a remote island, the internet connection can be temperamental and speaking from experience, you would rather want to have some extra money on you in case you cannot pay with your card.
• Snacks – as mentioned earlier, the only supermarkets or shops on the island aren’t easy to reach by foot and neither are they stocked with a great variety. Therefore, if you easily get peckish, you might want to do a grocery haul in Tongatapu.
• A good book! An off-the-grid island certainly makes a great place to actually go on a digital detox. With all the quietness around you, it gives you the chance to focus on that one book that you might have been putting off reading for a while or that you never really get to find the time for to start.
• Get an eSIM card to be connected right upon landing! A digital detox is good, but sometimes the ability to plan can come in handy.

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