If you are putting together an Almaty itinerary and wondering whether Kazakhstan is worth the detour, the short answer is yes, but probably not for the reasons you expect.
Almaty itself is fine. Soviet architecture, wide boulevards, a surprisingly good cafe scene, and mountains visible from almost every street corner. It is not the most charming city you will ever visit but it is a perfectly decent base for what actually matters here, which is what sits outside it.
The Charyn Canyon and Kolsay Lakes are genuinely extraordinary and almost nobody in Western Europe talks about them. That is reason enough to go!
This Almaty itinerary suits anyone already planning a Central Asia route through Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan, and anyone who wants somewhere genuinely off the beaten path that is still easy to navigate. I spent five days here before crossing into Kyrgyzstan and this is the itinerary I would follow if I were doing it again today.
Day 1 and 2, Almaty Itinerary: What to Actually Do
Almaty works best as a launchpad rather than a destination. Two days in the city is enough, then the canyon and the lakes are where the trip makes it all worth it. The city is walkable in parts and the mountains are always there in the background reminding you there are better things to do.
The Green Bazaar is the one thing worth going out of your way for. A proper central Asian market, spices, dried fruit, meat, dairy, locals doing actual shopping rather than tourists buying souvenirs. Go in the morning when it is busy and eat something from one of the stalls – it’s really tasty and a must on every Almaty itinerary!
If you want a proper introduction to the city before heading out to the nature, this guided Almaty City Tour covering Medeu, Shymbulak and Kok Tobe is a solid full day option!
The Ascension Cathedral, a tsarist-era wooden orthodox church built entirely without nails, is worth the short detour into Panfilov Park.
Kok Tobe hill is worth the cable car ride for the view over the city, especially late afternoon when the light is good and the mountains to the south turn golden. It is touristy but the view is real. I had a wonderful sunset here and the views were sweeping.
The cafe culture in Almaty surprised me. Good coffee, European style patisseries, young Kazakhs who speak English and are curious about where you are from. Better than expected!
Skip the Central State Museum unless you have a specific interest in Soviet history. It is exactly what it sounds like.
Almaty Kazakhstan Map & Things to See and Do
See here the best places to stay, visit and get a sense for the distances in this country.
Where to Stay in Almaty
For a unique stay close to nature, book Qazaq Garden if you want individual cabins set among trees with mountain and city views, a sauna, and the kind of family-run hospitality that makes you extend your stay. It sits near the Shymbulak ski resort area, quieter than the city centre but easy to reach by Yandex. One of the most distinctive places to stay in Almaty and the reviews back it up consistently.
Want to splurge? Book Swissotel Wellness Resort Alatau for a full luxury resort experience outside the city, forest setting, spa, indoor and outdoor pools, an 18 hole golf course, and mountain views from the rooms. It sits slightly out of town in a forest area which makes it genuinely peaceful. The trade-off is you need Yandex for everything but if you are planning to spend time at the resort between day trips that is not a problem.
For something central and practical, reserve Apart Hotel Colibri if you want an apartment style stay with a kitchen, more space, and a lower price point. Good base if you are using Almaty as a logistics hub and spending most of your time out on the day trips anyway.
Day 3, Kolsay Lakes and Kaindy Lake: The Unexpected One
The lakes are about 300 kilometres from Almaty near the Kyrgyz border, which is why the two day overnight version makes more sense if you can do it. When I visited our group was divided between local family homes in Saty village, up to nine people per family. No hotel, no menu, just whoever opened their door. It was one of those travel experiences that is slightly chaotic and completely memorable.
From the guesthouse we left early, and the last stretch of road to the lake is only accessible by old Soviet off-road vehicles. It’s the kind that look like they have been doing this route since 1970 and will probably outlast everything else. You pile in, hold on, and bump your way up to the trailhead where the short hike to the lake begins. It is chaotic, muddy, brilliant and completely part of the trip.
The real reason to make this tripas part of this Almaty itinerary is Kaindy. In 1911 a massive earthquake triggered a landslide that blocked a gorge and created a lake. The submerged spruce trees still stand upright in the water, trunks rising above the surface, grey and skeletal against turquoise water. It is one of the strangest and most beautiful things I have seen anywhere and almost nobody in Western Europe talks about it.
Kolsay itself is three lakes at increasing elevations. The lower lake is the most accessible and the one most people visit, turquoise water, dense spruce forest on the slopes above, horses grazing near the shore. It is beautiful in a quiet, unhurried way. The upper lakes require a proper hike and are worth it if you have the stamina and an extra day.
Up on the top you find a newly built restaurant for lunch. Nearby, you have small little vendors nearby selling chicken and meat skewers and warm drinks.
The easiest way to get there from Almaty without a car is to book a guided 2 day 1 night tour which handles transport, entrance fees, and takes the logistics entirely off your hands. Prefer to do it privately and at your own pace? This 2-day private tour to Kolsay, Kaindy and Charyn Canyon covers the same route with a dedicated guide and vehicle.
Day 4, Charyn Canyon: On the Way Back
Charyn Canyon sits on the route back to Almaty from the lakes, which is exactly why doing it on the second day makes sense. Three hours from the city, but after a night near the Kyrgyz border you are already halfway there.
The drive tells you something is coming. It’s Flat steppe for most of the journey, then suddenly the ground opens up and you are standing at the edge of something so special.
Start at the viewpoints at the top. The scale of the red rock formations only makes sense from above first, before you hike through them. This is where your best photographs will come from. Give it time before heading down!
Then go inside. The Valley of Castles is the main trail, about 2.5 kilometres through the canyon floor to a small river at the end. The rock formations up close are just extraordinary. The deep red sandstone carved over twelve million years into shapes that actually do look like castle towers. If you are visiting in summer come prepared. The canyon floor in July and August pushes above 40 degrees and there is no shade. Sunscreen, hat, and more water than you think you need.
At the river you can turn around and walk back out or pay around 500 KZT for the shuttle eco-taxi back to the top. Buy the ticket before you go down as you cannot buy it at the bottom.
Entry costs around 1,000 KZT per person, roughly $2, cash only.
If you want to do this exact route as part of your Almaty itinerary, this 2-day guided tour from Almaty follows the same route. One of the best reviewed tours out of Almaty and it books up fast in summer.
Essentials for Your Kazakhstan, Almaty Itinerary
When to go: May, June and September are the sweet spots. July and August are warmest but the canyon floor becomes brutally hot and the lakes get busy. Avoid December to February when mountain roads get icy and the canyon trails become genuinely hazardous.
Getting around: Yandex Go works well in Almaty for city transport. For the canyon and lakes you need a tour or a private driver. Independent transport is possible but not straightforward and not worth the effort.
If you are continuing to Kyrgyzstan after Almaty, the easiest way is a private transfer from Almaty to Bishkek. Door to door pickup, a driver change at the Kazakh-Kyrgyz border, and the whole thing takes around four to five hours. Worth it to avoid the shared marshrutka chaos!
Visa: Most European passport holders can enter Kazakhstan visa free for up to 30 days. Check current requirements before you book as this changes.
Money: Get yourself a Wise Card for card payments and ATM withdrawals. Almaty is cheap by European standards. The canyon entrance is cash only so make sure you have tenge on you before you leave the city.
Insurance: Make sure your policy covers hiking and outdoor activities if you are planning the upper Kolsay trail. Get your travel insurance here.
After Almaty: If you are continuing into Central Asia, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan is the natural next stop. I have a full guide to Kyrgyzstan including the hidden places most itineraries miss.
Kazakhstan rarely makes it onto anyone’s first Central Asia itinerary. It tends to get added as an afterthought on the way to Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan. The canyon and the lakes are the reason it should not be an afterthought. Go for the views, stay for the strangeness of a submerged forest in the middle of the steppe. It earns it.
This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase using these links, I earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support! I only recommend services and tools I know and trust myself.
[…] Already been to Kazakhstan or planning to combine both countries? Almaty makes a natural next stop and is a straightforward border crossing away. I have a full Almaty itinerary including Charyn Canyon and Kolsay Lakes. […]